Subcritical water extraction may be applied to botanical material (Baikal skullcap (Scutellaria baicalensis), St John's Wort (Hypericum perforatum), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), red clover (Trifolium pratense), Sophora flavescens, hawthorn (Crataegus spp.), Kudzu (Pueraria lobata), black cohosh (Cimicifuga species, especially varieties dahurica and racemosa), Paeonia species (especially varieties lactiflora and suffructicosa) or any closely related species) to give materials for use as anti-inflammatory agents and as agents for controlling the activity of matrix metalloproteinases typified by elastase and collagenase. The sub-critical water extraction may preferably be conducted at 150-200°C and/or at 70-85 bar. The extract may be incorporated into a topical formulation which may be suitable for reducing inflammation of the skin or for reducing the appearance of skin aging by reducing the activity of the proteolytic enzymes elastase and collagenase; it may be used as an adjunctive in the treatment of skin cancer.