The use, as a dermatological or cosmetic ingredient, of compounds capable of transiently interacting with the AhR receptor (aryl hydrocarbon receptor) as agents for modulating skin functions such as sebaceous function, skin healing, skin atrophy termed “dermatoporosis”, estrogen deprivation and defense against infection, without inducing other toxic effects of the TCDD type. The compounds that interact the AhR receptor are chosen in that they have a metabolism favorable to the dissociation of these effects, in particular by virtue of in situ production from a precursor and/or metabolization in situ.